Instructions for changing the in tank fuel pump fitted to Range Rover P38a.
The Range Rover P38a weather it is fitted with petrol are diesel engine both have electric fuel pump fitted in the fuel tank. The pump lifts the fuel up out of the tank and pumps to the engine under pressure.
The fuel pump mounted through the top of the fuel tank and has an electric motor and pump and also the level sender for the fuel gauge on the dashboard. The pump is similar to the unit fitted to the Range Rover Classic.
Symptoms of pump failure.
The symtoms of fuel pump failure on the 4.0 & 4.6V8 are the engine cuts out soon after starting up. The fuel pressure can be checked by pressing the valve on the fuel rail. There may be electrical fault for the pump not running (See electrics section)
The symtoms of the pump failing on the BMW 2.5 td engine may be a little more difficult to diagnose. This is because even with a failed tank pump the engine driven injection pump will still draw fuel from the tank. The non return valve can also fail allowing fuel to drain back after leaving the P38a to stand a while. This will cause excessive engine cranking to fire up.
You may have a fuel leak from the tank area which could be corroded fuel pipes on the top of pump, I have had this myself. Or your fuel level gauge may not be working which will mean the the tank pump will need to be replaced.
"COLOR: #3366ff">Replacing the in tank fuel pump.
PLEASE TAKE CARE AS PETROL IS VERY FLAMABLE
The Range Rover Classic had a handy inspection hole in the boot floor to gain access to the fuel pump, no such luck in the P38a you have to drop the tank on to the floor to change the pump.
You could work out were the pump is and cut a hole in the boot but I will show doing the job properly.
Heavy duty axle stands
Flat bladed screwdrivers
A selection of metric and AF spanners and sockets
First job to do if you do not have access to a automotive two or four post ramp is to jack the Range Rover up and support with heavy duty axle stands. Please remember that the P38a is a heavy 4x4 so appropeate jacks and axle stands need to be used. You may also find it useful to remove the rear right hand wheel so slacken the wheel nuts before jacking up.
Once jacked up yu will notice that the fuel tank sits in a cradle which has to be removed with the tank. The cradle is held by two bolts at the front and three nuts at the rear. A quick spray of penetrating fluid on these will help.
First job is to undo the flow and return hose's to the engine. These can be found at the front of the fuel tank as the hose's run down the right hand side. On the diesel model's you simply gently pull the fuel hose out of its fitting. You can not get the fittings the wrong way round on reassemble. Best have a container to catch the split fuel. On the petrol engines you have to undo the fitting of the in line fuel filter and the pipe fitting that runa along side it, as the photo shows.
You now want to support the fuel tank and undo the nuts and bolts holding the tank and cradle and lower the tank a little.
Next job is a right fiddle, you have to undo the hose clip that holds the fuel filler pipe on to the tank. This were removing the rear right hand wheel will help. You may also find removing the wheel arch liner or removing the right hand clips and bending the liner to get your hand in helps to. A small flat bladed screwdriver or 1/4" 8mm socket and ratchet should be able to undo the hose clip. Unfortunately my clips were both seized and I could not undo them so carefully hit them with a long flt chisel, shearing them off.
Now you can let the tank down a little and undo the fuel tank breather hose and the electric plug for the pump. The breather hose can be removed by undoing the hose clip and the electric plug is removed by pressing the top of the plug.
Let the tank down and pull out from under the Range Rover.
Once the tank is on the floor you will see that there are the two fuel pipes to undo from the pump assembly. Here I had a problem as I could not undo the fittings and ended up breaking the fittings of the pump.
With the new pump you should have two new olives and fittings for the pipes, I did not so had remove my old fittings and use new olives. The pump assembly is held in the tank by the big plastic locking ring which unscrews from the pump. I use a large pair grips to undo the ring, you could carefully knock the ring round with a hammer and punch or borrow the special tool
Clean round the pump and the top of the tank to stop muck falling in and carefully lift the pump out making sure you don't damage the seal round the top of the tank.
The new pump will drop into the tank making sure the outlet pipes are pointing forward and tighten the locking ring.
Slide the two fittings in to the inlet and outlet pipes and then fit the olives on to the pipes with the chamfered edge pointing outwards. Now push the pipes on to the pump and tighten up the fittings. I would now smear the top of the pump with grease to try and stop the metal pipes rusting.
Once you have fitted the new pump and hoses back you can now slide back under the P38a and jack up to reconnect the electric plug and tank breather hose. Jack up a little more and slide the tank filler hose on to the tank filler and tighten up the clips. I used new hose clips on the filler hose.
Bolt up the tank cradle and reconnect the fuel lines.
Now you can turn on the ignition and you should hear the pump working for ten seconds and then cut out, may run alittle longer as a little needs to fill the fuel system back up.
Start up and check for leaks. If everything is all right remove the axle stands. Job Done!